LCBO & YOU (AND ME) - CHRISTOPHERS' SPRING SIPS

I hope you are all well. It can be a challenge to emerge into the light of Spring, with this fog of Covid hanging over our heads!

I have been busy with launching my own series of ‘Virtual Wine Tastings’ - I have a planned Arc of Flavours focus on the grape Garnacha aka Grenache! May 15th 8pm. There are a few spots left!

A few weeks ago I was asked by the LCBO to host a tasting of 6 pre-selected wines Spring Sipping Wines. Wines to take you on an adventure in flavour, to different regions and a few different wine styles…rosé and rosé sparkling included. See the link to the LCBO YouTube Live Recording.

But…I decided that I would introduce my own Christopher Sealy - Arc of Flavours - Sipping Wines for you that could be found in the LCBO. Yes, the LCBO, one of ‘the’ largest retailers of wine in the world. It is sort of like buying records from the old HMV or SAM the Record Man - commercial interests are definitely driving factors in what is placed on the shelves. Though every now-and-then you can find some hidden gems in the rare groove or urban music section of the store, just like going through the Vintages Section. I prefer, and almost always shop at the 49 Spadina and Front Street LCBO. There is a greater and deeper selection of wines. Wines that many industry and wine professional enjoy and are happy to promote. The LCBO can be useful at times. If you know how to shop!

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Fattoria Nanni ‘Arsicci’ Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi 2018. Le Marche. Italy.

Verdicchio is one of Italy’s most noble and age worthy white wines. The region has history of great wine making notably in the world of white wines. This part of the Italian peninsula over-looks the Adriatic Sea. Vineyards at various elevations on limestone, clay and granitic slopes are exposed to the sun and sea, making for a sun kissed lemon, citrus, apple and gently herbal toned wines. There is a certain mid palate weight to the wine. Saline and mineral with a touch of fruit ripeness that seems slightly creamy, like nectar. This is a great aperitif wine and an easy going sipper with weekday meals. Let’s try something other than Pinot Grigio. Which is fine, but variety is the spice of life!

I somehow misplaced my receipt. The wine is approx $25-27 in the 49 Spadina LCBO. Limited bottles remain. There is also a higher end Verdicchio from another producer Garofoli ‘Podium’. I believe retails for $25-30 and is an excellent wine for the price with elegance and complex flavours.

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Lavradores de Feitoria Branco ( Blend of Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Siria) 2019. Douro.

Lavradores de Feitoria is a co-operative winery in the Douro Valley, Portugal. They continue improve in quality and complexity with each vintage. I did have an opportunity to visit this producer a few years ago. The wines caught my on the LCBO shelves and I had to taste the present, while I looked back to a wonderful past visit.

On this trip, I met with Olga Martins, a chief protagonist, in this organization. Dirk Niepoort is an influence in this project. Inspiring the many families involved in this project to form like Voltron in order to bring the power of the collective to the wine market.

A blend of grapes in this Branco : Malvasia, Gouveio, and Siria. Producing a wine that is warm in aroma with cantaloupe and melon, with pear and puree of apple. The tone of the wine is gentle and with volume. This is a light to medium bodied wine and un-oaked, in order to preserve freshness and brightness in flavour. Palate continues with melon, pear, apple with a gentle acid and mineral backbone. A pleasing entry level white wine from the Douro. I believe it retails for sub $25.

Go get some, there is plenty on the shelf!

The Garden at the HQ for Lavradores de Feitoria. I recall they mentioned this chateau was once owned by the Mateus Wine Family.

Tasting with Olga Martins (CEO, Commercial Director) and Paulo Ruao (Wine Making Director)

The Lavradores de Feitoria - Portolio of wines.

KNOW THE RIDGE Part : 1 - Ridge Monte Bello Vineyard Sonoma

RIDGE SOMMSYMPOSIUM 2019

It was June 2019, I had been invited down to visit Ridge Winery in California. This trip would be my first ever trip to California wine country. Sonoma to be exact, visiting the 3 major Ridge Family Estates of Monte Bello, Lytton Springs and Geyserville. The entire Ridge Family of wine makers and sales team host an annual Symposium with invited Sommelier from across America, I think I might have been the first Canadian invited and I had the pleasure of meeting China’s only Master Sommelier, Yang Lu among the esteemed guests. Over the 3 days starting in Los Gatos, with a meet and greet at ‘The Bywater’ for a champagne dinner, we would on the following days taste and tour the Monte Bello Vineyards near Cupertino and then finally travel up to the Estates at Lytton Springs and Geyserville Vineyards close to the quiet town of Healdsburg.

Ridge, and their Chief Wine Maker Paul Draper are world renowned for their legendary high altitude Monte Bello Ridge Vineyards of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. In fact Ridge Monte Bello 1971 was one of the wines presented by Stephen Spurrier at the famed ‘Judgment of Paris’ Wine tasting of 1976. An historic blind tasting hosted by Spurrier whereby he invited French Wine Judges to rate and rank wines of quality that included Chardonnay, both French and American in one flight. In the second flight, Cabernet Sauvignon/Bordeaux Blends of French and American origin . France had up until this point reigned supreme in global recognition for quality and heritage. Ridge Monte Bello ranked in the top 5 overall and the Ridge reputation was sealed. I would also add that the reputation of quality has certainly been maintained!

Ridge is also known for being a key player in pioneering the way for the ‘elevation and promotion’ of the grape Zinfandel in the region. See ZAP. Both Lytton and Geyserville Vineyards are dedicated to old vine and Heritage Zinfandel. These vineyards are special because of the unique DNA of the Field Blend. Field Blended Vineyards, historically, are a combination of different vines planted to ensure a ‘balanced’ crop and a wine of equally balanced flavour. Ridge has focused on Old Vine Zinfandel sprinkled with a blend of Southern France grapes such as Carignan, Grenache, Mataro (Mourvedre), Viognier to name a few. These Field Blended Vineyards had been acquired with an already pre-existing map of planting. That is to say the vineyards had been intentionally planted this way and have been since studied and maintained to give the Ridge Zinfandel blends their unique identity, style, let alone freshness! A freshness that is not always experienced while drinking the ‘other’ often high octane Zinfandels of California.

Day 1: We began our wine journey at the sleepy town of Los Gatos, the day opening up with a dry summer heat, very reminiscent of being somewhere in the Mediterranean. Departing for our first vineyard stop on an ascension (enter John Coltrane) up into the Santa Cruz Mountain AVA above Cupertino to see the Monte Bello Vineyards. These vineyards sit somewhere at 400 - 800 meters above sea level (m.a.s.l) and sit on one of the only places in the region that are of limestone soil. It is this limestone outcrop, sitting on top of the San Andreas Fault, which gives that special profile to Monte Bello Red (re: Cabernet Sauvignon + blend) at altitude. As I would soon learn, it is also here that they make their fantastic Monte Bello Chardonnay.

The Monte Bello Vineyards in its entirety is comprised of 4 different sub-vineyard. The lowest altitude vineyard, and where we had our introductions to the full Ridge team, is ‘Klein’ which sits at 500 m.a.s.l,. we then rise to ‘Rousten’, ‘Torre’ and ‘Perrone’ - home to the the historic Old Stone limestone cellar sitting at 800 m.a.s.l.

Klein Vineyard

View of Perrone from Rousten Ranch Vineyard

Paul Draper and his story at Ridge

The Vision : to make world class chard and cab from the same sight!

Eric Baugher, COO and wine maker at the Ridge Monte Bello Vineyards took us through a proper master class of Monte Bello Chardonnay and Cabernet. I can think of few better things to be occupied with at 10am in the morning. The tasting was hosted in the upper level of the original ‘Old Stone Winery’ that had been owned originally by the Perrone Family back in the late 1800’s. Dr. Perrone established Monte Bello Ridge by creating terraced limestone vineyards and a cellar carved into the limestone earth. Monte Bello Ridge became ‘Ridge’ Monte Bello in the 1940’s when the original founding members purchased the then abandoned cellar and thereafter started to plant Cabernet on the Perrone and the then acquired Torre Vineyards. The first commercial wine sales of Ridge Monte Bello was in 1962. It was in 1969 that Paul Draper became the winemaker at Ridge and it was his hand that crafted Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet 1971 for the famous Judgment of Paris : Stephen Spurrier tasting of 1976!

Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay Vertical

All wines were tasted June 2019.

2014 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay : This Ridge Chardonnay was made in a reductive style, with tones of lightly buttered popcorn, to apple and orchard fruit. Lashed with lemon, citrus peel and sweet honey comb. The palate is quite flinty, saline and mineral driven. ( I did add a note that this wine is less saline than the following vintages we would taste). The fruit on the palate is gentle of sun-sweetened golden apple as a defining character. I felt the wine be best described as clean and clear. Clarity. There is a very pleasing overall presence on the palate with quite a long finish.

2015 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay : 2015 showed less reduction than the 2014, with fleshy lemon and golden apple driving the wine. Orchard fruit of bruised apple and pear exhibiting sighs of evolution from bottle age and that honeycomb, lemon is softly layered with something like oat and cereal. The saline mineral note is much more apparent on the nose. The palate gives way to some texture, with fresh but less intense fruit of apple, lemon and touches of banana and spice. The wine feels warmer due to the vintage. Medium length on the finish.

2016 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay : 2016 carries a nice balance of reduction to fruit, with distinct golden apple, lemon and honey with an added layer of savoury herb. The mineral tone on the nose is more defined as Loire Sancerre like - silex/flinty. Bright! Palate is fresh and mineral balanced nicely with the sweet-ish apple, lemon, add lemon zest, and spice notes. I did not mention the notion of phenolic bitterness in the previous wines but it is here present, more intense yet gentle. Think light notes of popped corn and roast almond. This was by far the most complex and expressive of the Chardonnay wines.

2017 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay : Bottled Sample of 2017 mimics the 2016 with its veil of reduction. The fruit element here is sweet golden apple, lemon clean and clear with a feeling of the Mediterranean coast with herbs and floral aroma. The palate was less complex but direct with weight and intent.

NOTE: Please enjoy these next few photographs. I might encourage you to grab yourself a glass of Chardonnay or Cabernet, or whatever and jam to this dj. Osunlade mix…skip to the 1hour4min mark and turn full blast!, on whatever sound system you. [ a new window will open so stay with me ]

The Ridge Monte Bello is a rather classic Bordeaux Blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon with the additional spice and zest of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Upon tasting the wines one can not but remark at how fresh and mineral in drive these wines present in comparison to other California wines of the same pedigree and history. Paul Draper is strongly opposed to the UC Davis Wine Education as an approach to wine, with the argument that this UC Davis approach ‘messes with flavours’ and masks the potential of the true identity and character of California terroir and wines. All that remains is a mask of ‘oak’. It might be like Coca-Cola/Pepsi versus Chinotto or ‘real’ Root Beer.

The winemaking at Monte Bello embraces sustainability and organics. The wines are made with natural yeast, that undergo a natural malolactic fermentation from each of the 45 sub-parcels. Each varietal is made into wine separately. Then blended. How is Monte Bello made from so many parcels? In the early days all of the parcels would go into blending to make Monte Bello. The fear was to not ‘waste’ any of this wine. They soon realized that this was ‘forcing’ the wines into being Monte Bello, whereas now they watch and meticulously taste each barrel for better balance before blending. Tannin is managed at another level of detail with the use press fractions to complete the Monte Bello wine in any particular vintage.

Ridge Monte Bello Vertical

2012 Ridge Monte Bello : the 2012 greets you immediately with bright, and evenly ripe black and blue berry fruit notes followed by floral, and savoury herbal tones of the Mediterranean, with a sage like aroma dominant. From a balanced use of oak, one can sense spice, vanilla, and a subtle cumin, warm spiced feel. Overall the wine felt medium to full bodied, with firm tannin and bright acid holding up the nice forest bramble berry fruit. Gentle and savoury. A fine tuned and balanced wine reflective of site and elevation.

2013 Ridge Monte Bello : this 2013 presented deeper and darker, still waiting to reveal it’s true self. The same dark fruit was denser, concentrated on the nose with mint and bay leaf, yet still giving floral and fresh-cum-mineral tones on the aroma. The palate reflected the same intensity with firm, intense tannin with notable high acid, the fruit is latent but present. Overall the component varieties in the wine express themselves and perform as they should.

2014 Ridge Monte Bello : 2014 was harvested in September. An early summer that was hot, with drought and moving into rather mild conditions up until harvest. The wine presents up front with plum/damson, ripe confected berry, raspberry and currant. There is a freshness and floral tone that reminded me of Tuscan Sangiovese with some dusty rose aroma rising from the glass. The palate makes a seamless transition from aroma. It tastes like it smells. The tannin and acid are elevated giving way to an angular structure, the wine is sharp and justly balanced by the generosity in fruit.

2015 Ridge Monte Bello : 2015 was a result of a similar vintage as the 2014 though harvest took place in October. Perhaps altitude and exposition aided during a summer that experienced heat spikes, drought and wildfire in other areas of California wine country. This wine in fruit and aroma presented notes of ‘what-one-might-think’ as ‘classic-Bordeaux’. Truth be told that this wine is 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Clean and bright with layers of aroma, from berry to spice and a slight cooked, maderized, coulis layer of fruit. On the palate the wine is wrapped up with fine tannin, firm and so direct, but lashed with with tart plum, plum skin to prune, with a leafy herbal and savoury finish.

2016 Ride Monte Bello : 2016 complex and precise in its floridity, with currant, bramble fruit, baked fig, prune, subtle cumin - sotolon, pine and green herbs with the distinct floral and mineral freshness. Moving to the palate the same quality of intense bramble berry, plum, with sandal wood and great freshness/minerality. Again an intense yet complex wine. You can see from my notes that this is the most brief. I can say that the overall presentation of the wines from their structure - tannin v. acid, and fruit quality are all consistent. Like looking at a BMW 5 Series or the reliability of a Toyota Camry with all the bells and whistles. Though this last wine had the details, more than just the leather interior and hard wood, but also having a proper ‘EQ’ed’ audio system for your jazz, house music, or U.K grime!

2017 Ridge Monte Bello : Bottle Sample of the 2017 in its youth was bramble berry, with dried cassis, and currant. Underlying notes of upfront vanilla, baking spice with lower complexity, though intense. The palate reflected the intensity of youth in this wine, with bold tannin, notably high acid and the fruit flavours following notes of the aroma. A wine that needs to mature with time to see it true potential.

All wines were tasted June 2019

More to follow in Part 2 with a few words on Zinfandel at Lytton and Geyserville Vineyards.

CAPEZZANA of CARMIGNANO, TUSCANY : HISTORY AND HERITAGE

CAPEZZANA of CONTE CONTINI BONACOSSI 

SPRING TASTINGS this year ran frequently and with great intensity. It seemed like every body was in town showing their wares and wines from every part of the globe. It was a real task to fit them all in, especially if the wine maker had taken time to make the trip to the North American market. One of the many highlights was a visit from Daniel Edwards, the sales and marketing co-ordinator for the house of Capezzana. Daniel, formerly of the hotel and restaurant industry in his native England, found himself vacationing in a house next to the family estate of Carmignano Tuscany and the rest is history. 

I encountered the wines of Capezzana when the entry level Barco Reale wine was in the LCBO vintages, some 6-7years ago. Barco Reale is for all intents and purposes the original and first 'DOC' of Italy, and is arguably one the first appellation that applied the use of the Cabernet grape then called Cabernet Francesi, as a required component to the Sangiovese based wines of the zone. As a student of Italian wines I was much intrigued, I had done my readings on the wines and today was a great opportunity to taste and talk about the wines of the famed winery. Note that the estate was once part of the historic and noble family Medici of Tuscany 

BARCO REALE a 300 year history of wine.

History has it that the Grand Duke Cosimo III of the Medici (17th century) created the 'BANDO' a decree that declared the estate of Barco Reale as a wine zone of utmost quality. The Barco being a 53 km long wall that encloses lands and forests which contain an historical hunting ground, the wineries and vineyards, farms, olive groves and a few small rivers and streams. Situated north of Florence and to the Northwest of the Chianti appellation. The Barco Reale was noted of having superior wines and the Bando ensured that future wine was to continue to be made in particular style and fashion and also traded at a certain value to the highest courts and the greatest tables in all of Europe.

The property today is vast and includes 12OO acres of land on which today you will find the historic Medici Villa, along with 120 farmsteads of different families farming 300 acres of vineyards and 600 acres dedicated to olive groves.

It was in the 1920's that the noble family headed by the Count Contini Bonacossi, acquired the property. The Bonacossi family have been and still are collectors of antique art and textiles from Italy and Spain. The purchase of the estate was both a strategic business move and that of passion. The first bottles under the Contini Bonacossi was in 1925, in a more classic Bordeaux shaped bottle like the one we know today, they abandoned the old style straw covered 'fiasco' which was de rigueur at the time. This wine was 80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon with 1 year in tonneau and 1 year in bottle. Fast forward to the 1970's, with Ugo Contini Bonacossi the 4th generation and we see the foundations for the wines that I would taste today. In 1979, Ugo purchased clippings of Cabernet and Merlot from Ch. Lafite in Bordeaux in order to establish another level of excellence in their wines 

5 generations later and the current family members, Benedetta (wine maker), Vittorio (viticulturist), Filipo (olive oil production) and Bertrice (estate and sales manager) share the responsibility of guiding this family run estates towards consistant quality. 

Now for the wines. 

The Family Wines of Capezzna Conte Contini Bonacossi. Christopher Sealy

THE VILLA WINES: 

The VILLA di Capezzana is the flagship wine for the Capezzana Estate, the original blend for the wine remains as it was since 1925 comprising of 80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine spends 1 year in tonneau and 1 year in bottle. 

“Villa di Capezzana, as a wine is to demonstrate affordable quality with great ageing potential. ”

— Daniel Edwards for Capezzana

2013 Villa di Capezzana : the wine displays layers of earthy dark blue berry fruit and rich red berry fruit, with a nice floral note, bright and lifted giving way to a round and full palate and fine grained tannin. The fruit flavour is a medley of dark blue and red cherry that remains fresh and taut. Given some time the wine will show it's true colours and flavours. 

2007 Villa di Capezzana : this vintaged wine has evolved to present the same lovely floral and earthy tones I found in the '13, though with dried yet bright blue and red fruit, now add mushroom and a nice herbal sage aroma. The palate is soft and textured with dusty tannin and a chocolate powder like finish. 

TREFIANO VILLA ESTATE WINE

TREFIANO RISERVA wine was first produced in 1979, from a single plot on a 4 hectare vineyard located on the 'Trefiano' Villa estate, not far from the main 'Villa' property and vineyard. This is a 'handcrafted' wine of 80% Sangiovese with 10% each of Cabernet Sauvignon and Canaiolo, that spends 16 month in tonneaux and 1 year+ in bottle.  This wine has principally been made for the family and the following generations to collect and age. 

The delightful Treffiano Riserva - a Sangiovese/Cabernet/Canaiolo blend.

2012 Trefiano Riserva : is charming with rustic and pleasant bright fruit aroma and a floral nature. There is a certain complexity in this wine, that is understated, gentle and yet firm. The palate is seemingly sweet-ish with layers of orange blossom, some toffee and toasted coffee. It is a lovely and harmonious wine.   

ALONG THE FURBA RIVER: 

GHIAIE DELLA FURBA = the stones along the Furba River. This vineyard is located on a rather flat zone on the estate. In 1979 Vittorio and his father Ugo decided to establish a bonafide Bordeaux blend. The site and the feel of the vineyard was to emulate Bordeaux, the river, gravelly soil adjacent to a stream but of course in Tuscany. With original cuttings of Cabernet and Merlot from the famed Chateau Lafite, the wine today is a powerful combination of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 30% Syrah. 

2012 Ghiaie della Furba is pure and floral, with plum candy fruit, spice and touch of vanilla and all the svelte elegance and richness of a luxury wine without the price tag. The palate is very direct with surprisingly lifted with mineral tones that support bigger flavours rich blue fruit coated with buttered chocolate, wood spice and a vibrant pepper spice that is contributed by the Syrah. The tannins are well defined and need some time to settle but the wine gives pleasure today and I can only imagine the future. This wine is fully biodynamic. 

Daniel Edwards being interviewed by Jamie Drummond (goodfoodrevolution)

The final wine was the 2010 Vin Santo Riserva. A wine of true passion and dedication that is entirely made by the hand of Benedetta, the chief wine maker for the family estate. The wine is 90% Trebbiano and 10% Colombano Bianco. A delightful nectar that begins with a 3-6 month drying of the grapes on bamboo staves in a full terracotta stone chamber with windows. Benedetta by scent and feel will regulate humidity by opening and closing windows. When the grapes have lost nearly 80-90% of volume the grapes are pressed and turned to wine and then aged in 'caratelli', small wooden barrels made of chestnut, oak, and cherry. The barrels are stopped with concrete plugs and will remain this way for 6+ years. The DOC minimum is 5 years. Only 6000 btls are made each vintage and the resulting nectar is sweet and balanced with vibrant acidity, pale gold in colour with that classic caramelized almond and hazelnut flavours, add roasted peach and apricot with salted caramel.

These are the wines of Capezzana : Conte Contain Bonacossi. Some of the wines are already here, the 'Villa' is currently in vintages with the other wines to arrive in late September to early October. Contact Charles Baker at Cru Wine Merchants.

Christopher Sealy 

Agricola Tiberio : Cristiana Tiberio

A NEW FACE OF ABRUZZO : TIBERIO

this entry was composed listening to a mix by Joy Orbison  , no wine to accompany, just a glass of water first thing in the morning

I can think of few better ways to spend a Monday afternoon than a luncheon with a visiting wine maker.  Mr. Charles Baker of Cru Wine Merchants was hosting one of his producers, Agricola Tiberio of Abruzzo, Italy fame. Cristiana Tiberio the wine maker was here to present 6 wines ( 4 white, 1 'cerasuolo' and 1 red). 

Now the image and memory that most have of Abruzzo wines are simple, cheerful and fun wines to have with uncomplicated Italian cuisine. Long gone are the days of the 1/2 litre jugs of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo at your local Pizzeria….wait that is still happening isn't it? Aspetta! Cristiana Tiberio has been working hard to bring wines of 'terroir' and character to a thirsty public. The winery was started with her brother, Antonio in 1999, and they first vintages of their wines were released in 2004. A very interesting and critical component to this story is that Cristiana had spent several years making wine in Champagne and in the Mosel and admires the wines of Alsace and Burgundy. Combined with her vision of Abruzzo and what she has taken from a 'french' approach to wine its that it is more critical to 'follow the terroir, follow the vintage and to respect the vintage' if everything is done in a clear and focused way there is 'no need to force the wine' to be what it isn't. 

Fonte Canale 60year old Trebbiano and Cristiana Tiberio in the distance. 

TREBBIANO ABRUZZESE

The wines and terroir she has chosen to work are selected with the aim to express freshness and acidity in the resulting wines. She works only with original massal selection vines of the original Abruzzo Trebbiano, 'The' Trebbiano Abruzzese.  Not to be confused with the Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC, which can be a combination of any of the many variations of Trebbiano - the Toscana, Emilia-Romagnese, Bombino and Malvasia. All have the capacity of making massive quantities of wine at variable quality levels either for simple table wine or for bulk blending. Cristiana has moved away from this history towards an original source. She is determined to only work with the original Trebbiano Abruzzese from a massal clone selection which originates in an old plot of vineyard she purchased in the mountains outside of the town of Cugnoli located in the province of Pescara. She spent 4 years zoning in on the original vines to propagate her 30 hectares of vines. She tells us that the Trebbiano Abruzzese is of sensitive skin, small berry and quite fleshy and is somewhat sensitive to the light of the sun, hence the traditional 'Pergola' Training with leaf canopy giving just enough radiation to ripen the grapes. The goal is to preserve the freshness of the Trebbiano. The vines are raised on calcarous soils with a subsoil of sand. The wine is made, all the wines are made, from free run juice and ferment in stainless steel. Any and all ageing is done in bottle.

Cristiana presented 2 Trebbiano the first, the 2014 Tiberio Trebbiano d'Abruzzo which was light and lean like a ray of sunlight, with subtle very subtle notes of celery, fennel and citrus and a touch of green apple skins. Compared with the second wine the 2014 Tiberio 'Fonte Canale' Trebbiano of 60 year old vines, the best vines from her winery raised on marl and clay soils with deeper roots. The fermentation here is spontaneous with indigenous yeasts creating a subtle and quite focused wine, only after letting the glass warm did we perceive it's real nature. The wine was mineral, citric, rich and fleshy with saline, olive, sage pine notes. the Fonte Canale is a real wine of the mountains overlooking the Adriatic. 

PECORINO

We then explored the wonderful world of Pecorino. My first experience with this grape was with those of Guido Cocci Grifone, nearly 10 years ago when I started my career as a Sommelier. The grape was revived to it's current status by the work of Cocci Grifone and a few other producers particularly of Le Marche (the neighbouring province to the north). We bantered about the origins and the natural home of Pecorino. The natural zones being Le Marche and Abruzzo, but both creating wines of different profiles. Cristiana professes and was clear in letting us understand that Pecorino of Abruzzo is meant to be a mountain wine somewhat different than the Pecorino of Offida DOC in Le Marche which is on lower plains and foothills thus producing 'warmer and richer' wines. In Abruzzo the Pecorino grape can take advantage of altitude and unique micro-climate to help accentuate it's aromatics properties with aroma's like that of orange citrus,  sage, fresh fig and rosemary. The first of the Pecorino line up was the 2014 Tiberio Pecorino which though lean and tart had sweet clementine, orange, apple and fresh peach aromas with an almost Assyrtiko minearality with honeysuckle. The wine was quite engaging and convincing. Now the 2006 Tiberio Pecorino was a treat, the wine is actually the 2nd vintage of Pecorino for Tiberio. It was bright, with fleshy creamed peach, this is a wine of texture and a rich profile. Though with lower acidity then expected, it made up for it in herbs and lemon and pleasing flavour.                           

HISTORY AND BIODYNAMICS BEFORE LUNCH

As I am writing this I really can't recall the last time I encountered a Trebbiano or Montepulciano d'Abruzzo on a wine list or at any of the recent Italian focused trade tastings and perhaps there is a reason for that. I did ask Crisitiana to comment on the overriding mentality of the producers and growers in Abruzzo, her response was that 'first Abruzzo is an amazing region with amazing people and though many producers did not take the time to 'study' the region, there still is not such a 'high culture' of wine. Wine is business and not pleasure'. Outside of Valentini Emidio Pepe and Masciarelli there are few producers pushing the envelope, when in reality there is a lot of wine coming from this region. It is clear that Tiberio is investing and studying the region and charting a new style of wine in a rather cool-er climate terroir. I posed the question of vineyard practices and philosophy touching on the art of biodynamics. The response, as I have been receiving more and more lately is that the Philosophy of Biodynamics can be confused with a lifestyle versus how to make wines. There is a distinct difference. She does not practice biodynamics but works organically and as sustainable as possible, the fact that her mountain vineyards are as isolated as they are means there are not other vineyards to 'contaminate' the area. Her mentality is that the 'most important is the life of the vineyard' and that 'she would not risk the loss of her 'patrimony and heritage' by applying what would be extreme or minimal techniques. 

cerasuolo is not montepulciano rosé

The Montepulciano d'Abruzzo of Tiberio is a fresh as can be, no oak, 50 year old vines that are fermented in stainless steel, never over-ripe and never over-extracted. It is a modern style but taken from tradition. All sorting is done in the vineyard with the same team year in and out. Her process of vilification with the red wines starts with a Cerasuolo DOC from the Montepulciano red grape. A wine that is not rosé but indeed a DOC wine, that was born in the mountains, the historical zone of production. At the time the Montepulciano vine would not ripen as it would on the lower plains and the Pergola style training helped preserve the freshness of grapes and thus lent itself to a 'lighter' style of 'red' wine. The Tiberio Cerasoulo DOC is...

1.  Vines/Grapes selected and treated as if they were to be made into a white wine, grape are specifically selected for freshness rather than ripeness.
2. 'Salaso' = to make wine from the first free run juice as if it was a red wine. As she explained briefly,the first free run juice is removed from the main core of the pressed juice and this isolated juice is allowed to ferment as if it was a red wine. 

The 2014 Tiberio Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo was of a fresh red berry and candy cherry aroma, soft and plush with bright and lifted palate. It was very pleasing and screaming of tradition and the mountains air. 

The final wine for the afternoon was the 2013 Tiberio Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. It was rich and fresh, more red berry and a lining of blood orange and sour cherry and moving to the palate which was soft with pleasant red fruit, stewed plum and cherry with it's vibrant tannin and smooth finish. Certainly a wine that would stand on it's own and would confuse most Montepulciano drinkers with it's natural freshness and elegance. This was an everyday wine, a great companion for the dinner table or long lunch that will never disappoint with it charm and playfulness.  

Overall the wines were most certainly soundly and confidently made and with a distinct vision and profile that after tasting I could imagine the nature of the land with it's vast and rolling hills at the foot of the Appennine Mountains. 

Charles Baker, Cristiana Tiberio, and myself at Mercatto College Street

CASA MARIN : A 40 MINUTE CONVER-TASTING WITH JAMIE VERBRAAK

CASA MARIN ::::::::::: Crazy for Cool Climate!

This entry was written and composed whilst enjoying a Rabl 2013 Gruner Veltliner 'Langenlois' Kamptal DAC Austria and listening to a Jay Dee aka J-Dilla interview with Gilles Peterson from Feb 2001 commemorating his death anniversary and birthday. 

the conversation: w/ Jamie Verbraak - commercial manager

Jamie Verbraak - Commercial Manager for Casa Marín

It was nearly a year and half ago that I was introduced to the wines of Casa Marin. A colleague of mine, Mr. Ian Thresher had recently been on a wine tour of Chile and shortly after his return to Canada he placed a private order for several of their wines. The purchase Included a wine of remarquable character  this wine being 'the' Syrah from the Miramar Vineyards of Lo Abarca. The wine was enchanting. Along with their Sauvignon Blanc and the rare Sauvignon Gris these wines had a purity and brightness of fruit that is 'Chile' at its best, but these wines had a precision that reflected the passion and drive of their maker Maria Luz Marin. 

Maria Luz Marin is Chile's first Lady of wine, the nation's first female wine maker and the first female to own a winery in a rather male dominated industry. She was and still is at the vanguard of cool climate Chilean wines and boy do we love 'cool climate wines'! In fact shortly after her first vintage of 2003 under her Casa Marin label she received acclaime as the top producer of Chilean white wines!

She has accomplished all that she has in the face of a wine hierarchy that is dominated by massive brands and by companies that are not directly related to wine. I was informed that about 60% of the wineries in Chile are owned by approximately 40 large national or international companies. To clarify  - I can make no factual claim in this statement but I can understand the 'new world winery' business model and the investment that is needed in order to compete on the world market. Though private sector investment and corporate management is one way of doing things the Casa Marin story set's it apart from the rest. 

Maria Luz Marin, started her winemaking career in the 70's and into the 90's gathered momentum by building the 3rd largest producer of bulk wine in Chile, wines that would be used for blending and for supermarket brands in the domestic and european  markets. But....She had a higher calling and would be inspired to make 'great' wines with her talent and drive, but where? 

Lo Abarca in the 90's 

One of Maria's oldest childhood memories was of taking family vacations to the coast. The destination would be on the other side of the San Antonio Valley towards the ocean and the route would take them through an area called Lo Abarca. Lo Abarca is known for superior agriculture products and produce. As a child she would notice the temperature change and coolness as the family car travelled through various elevations towards their destination. As an adult knowing that she wanted to create unique wines, where would that be, and it was a childhood memory that would direct her back to Lo Abarca. Everyone thought she was crazy, it was too cold, the soils were too fertile. It would be folly, it would be financial suicide. Bah! She withdrew investments from her bulk wine company and bought, at auction, vineyard and land over various plots in Lo Abarca and set off to make her own wines as the first Chilean woman to found an independent winery. In 1999/2000 she planted vineyards and in 2003 she released her first wines that would prove to silence critics and nay-sayers.

CASA MARIN is

• 46 hectares.
• planted to Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris for white grapes and Syrah and Pinot Noir for red grapes ( with a new project focusing on Grenache).
• wines are sourced from 63 different vineyard plots.
• 80% of the vineyards are located in the hills of Lo Abarca on various micro-climates at elevations that range from 100 feet to 500 feet above sea level.
• soils range from loam to granite with sand and limestone with marine deposits in the flatter vineyards. 
• the maritime terroir is one of the coolest and closest to the coast,  though this cool the region benefits from a long season with an early and long spring and rather consistent and moderated temperature throughout the year.

Maria Luz is now assisted by her son Felipe, who has recently graduated from school of viticulture and oenology and has returned home from working in New Zealand. He is also spearheading a project focused on Grenache from vineyards that are farmed with biodynamic and natural applications. The results of which are fascinating and engaging the palates of some of the most astute critics and wine writers around the world.  

Casa Marin is the epitome of cool climate wines from the ever evolving wine world of Chile

the tasting:

Sauvignon Blanc 'Cartagena' 2013 : Cartagena is the Casa Marin entry level series of wines. They are most certainly pleasant and drinkable. Those who love Sauvignon in the riper fruit context and those studying Chilean Sauv Blanc will delight in the purity of flavour and complexity of expression. They are using a French Clone for this wine coming from one of their top vineyard sights, which helps explain certain complexity in flavour. From poor soils and a warm site this wine is a pleaser 

Sauvignon Blanc 'Cipresses' Casa Marin 2013: is the ultimate expression of the Casa Marin Sauvignon Blanc vision. The wines is made from smaller but better quantity of grapes per hectare coming from the vineyard. They are using a UC Davis 1 clone with cold maceration over 18hours with 3 weeks of lees contact. The wine sees 5% of oak but is barely felt if any on the palate. Think asparagus, sweet corn, and savoury and earthy notes with a sweet pea to creamy pea soup feel. Honestly Sauvignon Blanc is not my first choice but I find these wines to be precise, focused and made with the utmost care. 

Sauvignon Gris 'Estero' Casa Marin 2013 : is a unique creature indeed. Sourced from an old clone from Pessac Leognan in Bordeaux that never re-emerged after phylloxera as it was not considered profitable as a grape. Maria Luz felt this would be the exact grape to hold a place in her stable of white wines. The wine is made from spontaneous fermentation with 70% of the wine aged in 2/3 times used barrels with 30% rested in steel. To taste this wine think, grass, herbs, young green shoots, to leeks and chives, with texture and natural sweetness, though it is a dry wine. Lemon Thyme and Lemon Balm, but I may be reaching here. The palate is fresh and spiced with white pepper, round and pleasing. I fun wine for the student and the connoisseur. 

Pinot Noir 'Cartegena' 2013 : the first of their entry level Pinot Noir, think lean, fresh and spiced red berry. A pleasant balance of cool climate pinot character - fragrant, meaty, savoury with fruit that is dry versus sweet. Clocking in at 14% alcohol, it is impressive that the wine is so lean. 

Pinot Noir ' Litoral Vineyards' 2013 : is an example of their top tier production. The wine is high toned, peppered and savoury with nice red fruit. Really a balance of fruit and the savoury quality of Pinot Noir at it's best. Lush, Plush, mineral with a smokey and pleasant finish. A must have for PInot that should be ready to drink in the next 2-5 years. 

Viñedos Lo Abarca - a new series of wines  

Garnacha/Syrah 'Viñedos Lo Abarca No. 3 2013 : this is the Casa Marin new generation of wines made by Felipe, Maria Luz's son. He represents the new generation of wine makers focusing on wines made closer to natural and biodynamic principles. They planted grenache in 2011 and this is first presentation of the wine. 1800 bottles, 2 years in  barrel. The wine is killer! Think North Rhone, think Gigondas with a 20-30% blend of Syrah that takes the wine into a whole new level. The wine is of a sweet berry profile, with freshness and vibrancy, white and black pepper, a textured and pleasant mouthfeel. Can you tell that I really enjoyed this wine. Get some when they get here! Please!

FORADORI : THE ELEGANCE OF TEROLDEGO

It was a very cold Sunday night in January, it felt as though winter had finally arrived. Myself a winter baby it has been strange to have such 'clement' weather this time of year. Taking advantage of the snow-free streets I rode my bicycle down to Archive Wine Bar to taste the unique wines of Foradori and to meet Emilio Foradori. Emilio, oenologue and viticulture since 2013 is here on a multi-city tour of Canada presenting his first vintage as 'winemaker' of this family run winery. Emilio has taken over from his graceful and elegant mother Elisabetta. Emilio 27 yrs old, himself a student of Viticulture from SupAgro 'the' school of Viticultural Sciences in Montpellier (South France) and raised in the way of biodynamics is expanding on the vision of his mother, and that is to produce wines from indigenous grapes, Manzoni Bianco, Nosiola and Teroldego. Creating wines with depth and character, that are world class representatives of the potential of this northern corner of Italy. 

ELISABETTA Foradori, LA REGINA DELLA VAL D'ADIGE, Naturalemente

Elisabetta, is the Queen of Teroldego; from the age of 19 she was placed in charge her father's winery and estate. The father who suddenly passed away left all he had to his one daughter and dutifully she continued to tend to the vines until, intrinsically, she was lead to the world of biodynamics. Biodynamics as a philosophy and way of shepherding the vine and grape towards a more complex and dynamic wine. She completed studies in Viticulture and Winemaking and thus from a technical aspect she was capable of making correct wine from the grape Teroldego of Rotaliano. She soon grew tired of the run of the mill correct wines and the co-operative mentality so much that in the early 80's she started the conversion to  biodynamic methods to allow the truth to be heard from her vines. She first focused on Teroldego as the variety to be the vehicle for her 'message in the bottle'. The wines stand alone and are an example of honest winemaking. Taste for yourself and you shall see. 

“Why is Granato Granato?…it was meant to be a big fat wine from the Teroldego grape, at the time the common example was fresh, floral and lighter in body….with time the wine has become concentrated, focused and the strongest expression of what Foradori Teroldego is…”

— Emilio Foradori

TEROLDEGO of the Rotaliano Plains

The grape is found for the most part in the central valley below the Dolomiti Mountains. The 'plain' is called Campo Rotaliano for which the grape receives it's classic name Teroldego Rotaliano. Now interestingly enough the grape is genetically related to the majestic Syrah of France. It is also the cousin of the Lagrein of Italy, and the lesser known Mondeuse and Dureza of France. The growth cycle, as explained briefly by Emilio, is like that of Syrah, it is quite vigourous, the leaves will fall, as in lop over from their own weight unless they are managed and will produce medium sized grapes that are harvested usually in September. The grape tends to produce wines of elevated acidity, with dark savoury fruitiness and are deep in colour. 

The beauty of the Foradori vineyards is that vines for all of their vineyards are originally from a massal selection ( 15 select cuttings of old vines) from 4 of their oldest vineyards. These 4 vineyards were planted within the years of 1938 and 1954 and contain the original 'DNA' for the Teroldego that they use today. These 4 vineyards produce the grapes for the top red cuvée called 'GRANATO'. 

 Foradori does not use 'clones'. The reason is that as a result of agricultural crossings, certain 'clones' of the same variety are made to be either very productive and/or resistant to disease for whatever purpose suits the needs of the winemaker and though they can produce palatable wines these specimens will never reach the same complexity and depth of flavour as original massal selections. Foradori has chosen quality over quantity.

Foradori Family of Wines.

message in the bottle, a session with emilio foradori

We began the tasting with the 2014 Manzoni Bianco 'Fontanasanta'. Manzoni Bianco isn't that what we clean hockey rinks with? Not quite. It is in Emilio's opinion 'one of the few crossings by man that were successful'. The Dr. Manzoni was responsible for crossing Riesling and Pinot Bianco, thus Manzoni Bianco. The Manzoni Bianco populated vineyards within Friuli, Veneto and Trentino producing mineral and savoury wines, with low yields and a strange growth character, in that the vine grows straight up in the air like a bean stalk, and with thick skins became an ideal candidate for wines of long maceration. it was Emilio's grandfather, who studied wine in Conegliano (Prosecco country), that found that the grape adapted well to the clay soils of the hills in Trento near a village called Fontanasanta. The wine itself spends 5-7 days of maceration with skin contact and then 7-8 months in Acacia casks. I found the wine to be quite lovely and engaging with a lovely floral, then smokey and white stone fruit character with a palate of mountain flowers and bright herbs. With time this wine will be quite charming. 

We had the pleasure of tasting two vintages of the Nosiola 'Fontanasanta' both 2010 and 2013. The Nosiola grape variety is local and indigenous which today is limited to 50 hectares in the entire world. 50 years ago there were more than 850 hectares dedicated to the grape before the 'co-operative' system forced out this rather 'non-aromatic' and 'Shy' grape. The majority believed in Pinot Grigio, the almighty saviour and provider. Foradori stuck by Nosiola and this wine is a fantastic example of what Foradori is about.

Enter the amphora, the spanish styled clay vessel called the 'Tinajas' [tina'has}. We talked of the 2 prevailing traditions of 'clay' Amphora wine making, 1. that of the Georgians and 2. that of the Spanish that use 'clay' as the material for the vessel. Why I asked, and Emilio explained that clay gives oxygen and helps in the 'life processes' of the wine as it moves through it's natural transformation from grape to wine. The clay keeps the wines bright and alive without imparting additional flavour. The Foradori Nosiola spends 7 months with skin contact in amphorae and tasting the two vintages side by side the progression is remarkable. 2013 Nosiolo 'Fontnasanta' was rotund with pear, melon, then savoury of mountain herbes and dried mountain flowers and another moment, waxy like honeycomb. The wine is very persistent in flavour. Whereas the 2010 Nosiola 'Fontanasanta' was evolved with red and green apple skin, the texture of tannin subtle and salted, the herbs moved to something caramel and luscious 'super dope' flavours I exclaimed, like nothing I've tasted before and the perfume. I was compelled to eat and drink. To put this wine into context, there are only 3 other producers working with this variety in a region that is dominated by 2 very large co-operatives that account for 95% of the wine produced in the region. Now think Trentino-Alto Adige contributes maybe 5% of Italian wine production. The co-operatives generate 70million bottles and Foradori generates 8,000 bottles of this near forgotten grape Nosiolo! Get some it's great!

We then proceeded to the reds which are all 100% Teroldego 'vigneti delle Dolomiti' from 2011 and 2013 vintages. Emilio describes the vintages in very direct terms. 2011 was a 'Primadonna' vintage of generous and sexy wines and the 2013 vintage was more 'German' in style. My notes in brief are as follows. 

2013 Foradori Teroldego. A wine that spends 1/2 it's time in oak and the other in concrete was redolent of violets and purple flowers (what are purple flowers) and dark berries, the flavours were earthy and textured with a subtle burnt orange skin with soft grained tannin that was gentle and savoury. This is the classic Foradori Teroldego from the plains of Rotaliano. (in Bordeaux bottle for wines that have spent time in oak) 

We then moved to the (2)single vineyard expressions of Teroldego. Wines of long maceration in the 'tinaja' styled amphorea. Both wines were presented in Burgundy bottle

Two single Vineyards 100% Teroldego 100% Amphora (Tinajas) 100% delightful.

2013 Sgarzon Teroldego. Emilio describes this wine as 'nervous' and bright with acidity as it comes from a cooler site with sandy soils. Indeed the wine is bright and floral, with sweet fresh red berry like a creamed soda. The texture of the wine is remarkable in that the tannin is evident but not pronounced. The wine is earthy but carries none of the tell-tale signs of amphora aged biodynamic wines. It was a Teroldego that I had always wanted.

2013 Morei Teroldego comes from one of the hottest vineyards that receives an extra 2 hours more of sun exposure and is on stoney soils. Morei means dark in the Trento dialect and the wine is indeed warmer and richer in all facets. Think dark cherry, sweet purée of tomato with red liquorice. I imagines red twizzlers made of wine. The structure of the wine was just that much more beefier than the Sgarzon but you could identify them having the same hand in wine making. The acid hound that I am loved the Sgarzon but the Morei had a certain hedonistic pleasure. Both wines would be handsome at the dinner table and fitting for any and every mood. Balanced, focused, complex and of character. 

2011 Granato Teroldego. The flagship wine of the family. Before tasting I had to ask Emilio 'Why is Granato Granato?" His response was that as a wine that started in the 80's it was meant to be a big fat wine from Teroldego, at the time the common examples were fresh, floral and lighter in body. Though the Granato has evolved with time, the wine has become concentrated, focused and the strongest expression of what Foradori Teroldego is.

An homage to the influence of the Mediterranean, the origin of wine. Granato - charm, beauty, elegance

Granato = Pomegranate. I have had 2009 vintage of this wine and it is such a charming and sexy wine, the 2011 was nothing short of lovely, with minted dark forest berry, savoury and bright profile on the palate with a soft braised mushroom, umami like texture, call it depth of flavour and I reminded myself that Granato is sourced from the 4 oldest mother vineyards, planted between 1938 to 1954. The 4 main vineyards being Regin, Redot, Pasquari, Cesura and occasionally Noval. 

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Emilio Foradori

I must say it was a fantastic and casual session of tasting and talking wine with Emilio and Foradori, one of Italy's brightest stars of wine. Thank you to Archive Wine bar for hosting us and 'The Living Vine' Agency for bringing us such a elegant and lovely wines. Emilio was quite charismatic despite just getting off the plane 3 hours previous. I can only imagine the power and grace of his mother. Emilio having studied in France, has also worked at Cheval Blanc, has recently spent some time in Patagonia and is part of a generation of modern and connected winemakers that will only bring the public closer to the true 'message in the bottle'. 

That's it for now. a la proxima

Christopher

EARTH AND SKY….IS THE LIMIT - XINOMAVRO from Thymiopoulos Vineyards. Naoussa Greece

For the second time this year I had the opportunity to catch up with Apostolos Thymiopoulos, who is one of my favourite wine producers and quickly becoming a good friend in wine. On this market visit he was accompanied by his lovely wife Eleftheria, her first visit to the Toronto. The couple are the driving force behind the wines of Thymiopoulos Vineyards of Naoussa, Greece. They are the producers of amazing biodynamic wines based on the noble red grape called Xinomavro [sour -dark].  Why is Xinomavro fabulous and worthy of your attention? Well if you are a lover of Pinot Noir, an admirer of Nebbiolo then you will absolutely die for Xinomavro. The wines are bright fresh, savoury with red cherry fruit to sometimes olive sun dried tomato all wrapped up in firm tannin and a good dose of acidity. Sounds delicious doesn't it. The appellation of Naoussa is located in the northern part of Greece sitting a the foot of the Vermio Mountains. Naoussa is one of 4 appellations for the production of high quality Xinomavro,  the others being Rapsani, Amynteo and Goumenissa. The landscape here is of rolling and lush hills that remind you of the Langhe - Barolo and Barbaresco regions of Piemonte, Italy. In all truth and honesty my first visit to Greece in 2012 with New Wines of Greece was just after I had spent 6 days in Piemonte tasting Nebbiolo. When I encountered the Xinomavro of Thymiopoulos, I felt like I was tasting an original version of Nebbiolo! The experience was amazing. As soon as I returned to Toronto I contacted the 'brand new' agency of Victory Wine and Spirits owned/managed by  Nicole Artopolous and I had exclaimed that I had to have these wines. I could say with confidence that I was one of the first to pour these wines in Toronto and I've been an 'unofficial' ambassador for the brand and the wines ever since. But I digress.  The climate here is a combination of Continental and Mediterranean and many vineyards are situated at 300 to 500 metres above sea level. The grape of Xinomavro is one of Greeces vinous crown jewels and certainly impresses with it's charm. 

Thymiopoulos wines are farmed on 28 hectares of Biodynamic vineyards in the two prime  villages of Trifolos and Fytia. There are no subregions yet defined in Naoussa but they are moving closer to single vineyard designations. What I did learn is that within Naoussa there are 7 villages that are home to the best vineyards for Xinomavro production. The soils at these 7 villages are primarily a combination of schist, granite, red granite and quartz.

Starting in 2003 released their first vintage and have been running since, receiving critical acclaim and plaudits with every vintage. Apostolos truly believes in biodymanics in that it would be strange to have vines 'lined up like soldiers in the field' he prefers to have wild flower and grasses in between the vines, not only does this 'life in the vineyard' add complexity and aroma to the wines, there is a natural barrier and protection that the vines are afforded against the high temperatures here that can rise to 38degrees celsius in the heat of summer.    

Apostolos with his 'Nature' - near zero sulphur Xinomavro…soon to be available in Ontario. 

First off we tasted the wines of his ATMA project. A white wine blend that is composed of  primarily Malagouzia, then followed by variable amounts ofs Assryrtiko, Aidani and Roditis. The vines for this wine are average age of 4years old from rocky schist and granitic soils. As 2014 was a rather cool year, the components of the blend will change based on vintage. We had the 2014 ATMA blend which had a very reduced amount of Malagouzia, a semi-aromatic varietal. Instead of ripe luscious fruit, there is lean and clean floral aroma to peach and pear and slight green apple. There was some flesh to the wine underlining the wines subtle and pleasant nature. The wine had been previously called 'The Boarding Pass' which I had purchased in 2011. The wine stylistically has come along way and will only get better with time. 

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The Young Guns!

We then jumped into the main feature of the visit and that is the Xinomavro wines of Young Vine and Earth and Sky. I know that with every guest that I present this wine to they have been awestruck and amazed at it's quality and character. I gently remind them that Xinomavro and the terroir from which this grape comes from is some of the oldest wine growing regions in the world and that much of what we know about wine today originates here and before that in the Middle East. Amazing! I know. 

The 2013 Young Vines Xinomavro is composed of vines aged 7-9 years. Much of the fruit is coming from several villages in the area. Harvested in the end of September, the wine goes into maceration for 12-14 days and sometimes this is done in whole cluster to give depth and texture. I must say that this vintage was quite exceptional. A combined and stunning rich fruity and floral aroma with savoury earthiness to balance. To taste this wine is to taste silky red and black cherry, with sweet sundried tomato and tomato leaf with a lift that is like a fresh breeze in the northern hills of Greece. Apostolos has had a hard time keeping this wine in stock. So much so that he most recently bottled directly from the stainless steel vats! Believe me the wine is this good! 

Now to the big brother, 2013 Earth and Sky sourced from 9-11 vineyards with average age of 42 year old vines, natural fermentation and no controlled malolactic, 4 month on lees and continual ageing in large barrel for 18 months. Now words can't really describe the lovely rich and heady aroma of this wine, earthy pine needles with a creamed cherry tartness that lashes out images of Nebbiolo, then pushes fine and velvety tannin of Sangiovese then back flips back to the old world with a charm that is only Xinomavro!

Last but not least was the 2014 Rosé. The vines are on average 4 years old, harvested in November after the grapes for the reds are collected. A 10 hour overnight extractions results in a gorgeous candy cherry and raspberry delight. This is a wine with presence and me not being a 'massive' fan of rosé could not help but fall in love with this wine. 

If you haven't yet tried the wines of Thymiopoulos, I really do believe you might be missing out on a very exciting and engaging family of wines from Naoussa in Northern Greece. There are many great wine of the world and I think even fewer that provide sheer and pure drinking pleasure. 

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Eleftheri and Apostolos Thymiopoulos, Me (int the Tie) and Nicole Artopolos of Victory Wines

Drink More Xinomavro