KNOW THE RIDGE Part : 1 - Ridge Monte Bello Vineyard Sonoma

RIDGE SOMMSYMPOSIUM 2019


It was June 2019, I had been invited down to visit Ridge Winery in California. This trip would be my first ever trip to California wine country. Sonoma to be exact, visiting the 3 major Ridge Family Estates of Monte Bello, Lytton Springs and Geyserville. The entire Ridge Family of wine makers and sales team host an annual Symposium with invited Sommelier from across America, I think I might have been the first Canadian invited and I had the pleasure of meeting China’s only Master Sommelier, Yang Lu among the esteemed guests. Over the 3 days starting in Los Gatos, with a meet and greet at ‘The Bywater’ for a champagne dinner, we would on the following days taste and tour the Monte Bello Vineyards near Cupertino and then finally travel up to the Estates at Lytton Springs and Geyserville Vineyards close to the quiet town of Healdsburg.

Ridge, and their Chief Wine Maker Paul Draper are world renowned for their legendary high altitude Monte Bello Ridge Vineyards of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. In fact Ridge Monte Bello 1971 was one of the wines presented by Stephen Spurrier at the famed ‘Judgment of Paris’ Wine tasting of 1976. An historic blind tasting hosted by Spurrier whereby he invited French Wine Judges to rate and rank wines of quality that included Chardonnay, both French and American in one flight. In the second flight, Cabernet Sauvignon/Bordeaux Blends of French and American origin . France had up until this point reigned supreme in global recognition for quality and heritage. Ridge Monte Bello ranked in the top 5 overall and the Ridge reputation was sealed. I would also add that the reputation of quality has certainly been maintained!

Ridge is also known for being a key player in pioneering the way for the ‘elevation and promotion’ of the grape Zinfandel in the region. See ZAP. Both Lytton and Geyserville Vineyards are dedicated to old vine and Heritage Zinfandel. These vineyards are special because of the unique DNA of the Field Blend. Field Blended Vineyards, historically, are a combination of different vines planted to ensure a ‘balanced’ crop and a wine of equally balanced flavour. Ridge has focused on Old Vine Zinfandel sprinkled with a blend of Southern France grapes such as Carignan, Grenache, Mataro (Mourvedre), Viognier to name a few. These Field Blended Vineyards had been acquired with an already pre-existing map of planting. That is to say the vineyards had been intentionally planted this way and have been since studied and maintained to give the Ridge Zinfandel blends their unique identity, style, let alone freshness! A freshness that is not always experienced while drinking the ‘other’ often high octane Zinfandels of California.

Day 1: We began our wine journey at the sleepy town of Los Gatos, the day opening up with a dry summer heat, very reminiscent of being somewhere in the Mediterranean. Departing for our first vineyard stop on an ascension (enter John Coltrane) up into the Santa Cruz Mountain AVA above Cupertino to see the Monte Bello Vineyards. These vineyards sit somewhere at 400 - 800 meters above sea level (m.a.s.l) and sit on one of the only places in the region that are of limestone soil. It is this limestone outcrop, sitting on top of the San Andreas Fault, which gives that special profile to Monte Bello Red (re: Cabernet Sauvignon + blend) at altitude. As I would soon learn, it is also here that they make their fantastic Monte Bello Chardonnay.

The Monte Bello Vineyards in its entirety is comprised of 4 different sub-vineyard. The lowest altitude vineyard, and where we had our introductions to the full Ridge team, is ‘Klein’ which sits at 500 m.a.s.l,. we then rise to ‘Rousten’, ‘Torre’ and ‘Perrone’ - home to the the historic Old Stone limestone cellar sitting at 800 m.a.s.l.

The Vision : to make world class chard and cab from the same sight!

Eric Baugher, COO and wine maker at the Ridge Monte Bello Vineyards took us through a proper master class of Monte Bello Chardonnay and Cabernet. I can think of few better things to be occupied with at 10am in the morning. The tasting was hosted in the upper level of the original ‘Old Stone Winery’ that had been owned originally by the Perrone Family back in the late 1800’s. Dr. Perrone established Monte Bello Ridge by creating terraced limestone vineyards and a cellar carved into the limestone earth. Monte Bello Ridge became ‘Ridge’ Monte Bello in the 1940’s when the original founding members purchased the then abandoned cellar and thereafter started to plant Cabernet on the Perrone and the then acquired Torre Vineyards. The first commercial wine sales of Ridge Monte Bello was in 1962. It was in 1969 that Paul Draper became the winemaker at Ridge and it was his hand that crafted Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet 1971 for the famous Judgment of Paris : Stephen Spurrier tasting of 1976!

Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay Vertical

All wines were tasted June 2019.

2014 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay : This Ridge Chardonnay was made in a reductive style, with tones of lightly buttered popcorn, to apple and orchard fruit. Lashed with lemon, citrus peel and sweet honey comb. The palate is quite flinty, saline and mineral driven. ( I did add a note that this wine is less saline than the following vintages we would taste). The fruit on the palate is gentle of sun-sweetened golden apple as a defining character. I felt the wine be best described as clean and clear. Clarity. There is a very pleasing overall presence on the palate with quite a long finish.

2015 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay : 2015 showed less reduction than the 2014, with fleshy lemon and golden apple driving the wine. Orchard fruit of bruised apple and pear exhibiting sighs of evolution from bottle age and that honeycomb, lemon is softly layered with something like oat and cereal. The saline mineral note is much more apparent on the nose. The palate gives way to some texture, with fresh but less intense fruit of apple, lemon and touches of banana and spice. The wine feels warmer due to the vintage. Medium length on the finish.

Ridge Chardonnay Monte Bello


2016 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay : 2016 carries a nice balance of reduction to fruit, with distinct golden apple, lemon and honey with an added layer of savoury herb. The mineral tone on the nose is more defined as Loire Sancerre like - silex/flinty. Bright! Palate is fresh and mineral balanced nicely with the sweet-ish apple, lemon, add lemon zest, and spice notes. I did not mention the notion of phenolic bitterness in the previous wines but it is here present, more intense yet gentle. Think light notes of popped corn and roast almond. This was by far the most complex and expressive of the Chardonnay wines.

2017 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay : Bottled Sample of 2017 mimics the 2016 with its veil of reduction. The fruit element here is sweet golden apple, lemon clean and clear with a feeling of the Mediterranean coast with herbs and floral aroma. The palate was less complex but direct with weight and intent.

NOTE: Please enjoy these next few photographs. I might encourage you to grab yourself a glass of Chardonnay or Cabernet, or whatever and jam to this dj. Osunlade mix…skip to the 1hour4min mark and turn full blast!, on whatever sound system you. [ a new window will open so stay with me ]

Ridge Montebello Cabernet Sauvignon .JPG

The Ridge Monte Bello is a rather classic Bordeaux Blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon with the additional spice and zest of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Upon tasting the wines one can not but remark at how fresh and mineral in drive these wines present in comparison to other California wines of the same pedigree and history. Paul Draper is strongly opposed to the UC Davis Wine Education as an approach to wine, with the argument that this UC Davis approach ‘messes with flavours’ and masks the potential of the true identity and character of California terroir and wines. All that remains is a mask of ‘oak’. It might be like Coca-Cola/Pepsi versus Chinotto or ‘real’ Root Beer.

The winemaking at Monte Bello embraces sustainability and organics. The wines are made with natural yeast, that undergo a natural malolactic fermentation from each of the 45 sub-parcels. Each varietal is made into wine separately. Then blended. How is Monte Bello made from so many parcels? In the early days all of the parcels would go into blending to make Monte Bello. The fear was to not ‘waste’ any of this wine. They soon realized that this was ‘forcing’ the wines into being Monte Bello, whereas now they watch and meticulously taste each barrel for better balance before blending. Tannin is managed at another level of detail with the use press fractions to complete the Monte Bello wine in any particular vintage.

Ridge Monte Bello Vertical

2012 Ridge Monte Bello : the 2012 greets you immediately with bright, and evenly ripe black and blue berry fruit notes followed by floral, and savoury herbal tones of the Mediterranean, with a sage like aroma dominant. From a balanced use of oak, one can sense spice, vanilla, and a subtle cumin, warm spiced feel. Overall the wine felt medium to full bodied, with firm tannin and bright acid holding up the nice forest bramble berry fruit. Gentle and savoury. A fine tuned and balanced wine reflective of site and elevation.

2013 Ridge Monte Bello : this 2013 presented deeper and darker, still waiting to reveal it’s true self. The same dark fruit was denser, concentrated on the nose with mint and bay leaf, yet still giving floral and fresh-cum-mineral tones on the aroma. The palate reflected the same intensity with firm, intense tannin with notable high acid, the fruit is latent but present. Overall the component varieties in the wine express themselves and perform as they should.

2014 Ridge Monte Bello : 2014 was harvested in September. An early summer that was hot, with drought and moving into rather mild conditions up until harvest. The wine presents up front with plum/damson, ripe confected berry, raspberry and currant. There is a freshness and floral tone that reminded me of Tuscan Sangiovese with some dusty rose aroma rising from the glass. The palate makes a seamless transition from aroma. It tastes like it smells. The tannin and acid are elevated giving way to an angular structure, the wine is sharp and justly balanced by the generosity in fruit.

2015 Ridge Monte Bello : 2015 was a result of a similar vintage as the 2014 though harvest took place in October. Perhaps altitude and exposition aided during a summer that experienced heat spikes, drought and wildfire in other areas of California wine country. This wine in fruit and aroma presented notes of ‘what-one-might-think’ as ‘classic-Bordeaux’. Truth be told that this wine is 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Clean and bright with layers of aroma, from berry to spice and a slight cooked, maderized, coulis layer of fruit. On the palate the wine is wrapped up with fine tannin, firm and so direct, but lashed with with tart plum, plum skin to prune, with a leafy herbal and savoury finish.

2016 Ride Monte Bello : 2016 complex and precise in its floridity, with currant, bramble fruit, baked fig, prune, subtle cumin - sotolon, pine and green herbs with the distinct floral and mineral freshness. Moving to the palate the same quality of intense bramble berry, plum, with sandal wood and great freshness/minerality. Again an intense yet complex wine. You can see from my notes that this is the most brief. I can say that the overall presentation of the wines from their structure - tannin v. acid, and fruit quality are all consistent. Like looking at a BMW 5 Series or the reliability of a Toyota Camry with all the bells and whistles. Though this last wine had the details, more than just the leather interior and hard wood, but also having a proper ‘EQ’ed’ audio system for your jazz, house music, or U.K grime!

2017 Ridge Monte Bello : Bottle Sample of the 2017 in its youth was bramble berry, with dried cassis, and currant. Underlying notes of upfront vanilla, baking spice with lower complexity, though intense. The palate reflected the intensity of youth in this wine, with bold tannin, notably high acid and the fruit flavours following notes of the aroma. A wine that needs to mature with time to see it true potential.

All wines were tasted June 2019

More to follow in Part 2 with a few words on Zinfandel at Lytton and Geyserville Vineyards.

The Haunted

A wine in a state of evolution. Great Langhe Nebbiolo is such a treasure when produced at this level of quality. That haunting aroma of Nebbiolo in its complex and mysterious form. A shape shifter in a glass. To taste it's fine grained and firm tannin with bright lashes of forest berry and strawberry compote, for me is pure delight. 

IMG_0893.JPG

SETÚBAL. / José Maria da Fonseca - A PORTUGUESE WINE DIARY

NOTES FROM A TRIP IN NOVEMBER 2016

It was soon time to leave the Alentejo and start the journey to the north of Portugal, though before going north there would be a visit to the house of José Maria da Fonseca. One of the longest standing wineries in all of Portugal and if it is not the first, it certainly is one of the very first wineries to export wines out of Portugal to International market.

Today the company has approximately 650 hectares under vine that can produce up to 6.9 million litres of wine. With 80% of their exports to Scandinavia, Canada, USA and Brazil and only 20% consumed domestically, da Fonseca is an example of a family run winery that has transformed itself into a well run company with deep roots in the Peninsula de Setúbal appellation. Under the wine guidance of Domingos Soares Franco, a graduate of the wine school at University of Davis in California, Domingos and da Fonseca are known as a leader in research, innovation and winery technology. On my first visit to Portugal in 2013 I had the opportunity to have lunch in the family garden with Domingos and his nephews. His nephews assist in the management of the company and it is their father António, whom I had lunch with on this recent visit, who is the CEO of the company. 

Back in 2013  I had the opportunity to taste single bottling of over 15 different Portuguese grape varieties to better understand their character and what they each bring to the blending of wines. Yes the blending of wines is an art in which the best winemakers succeed at. A mastery in the Art of Blending is the key to consistent quality for the wines of Portugal, combined with innovation and improvements in the vineyard the potential is exciting. It is certainly the case for house of da Fonseca

2013 Tasting of Single Varietal Wines representing the Grapes of Portugal.

2013 Tasting of Single Varietal Wines representing the Grapes of Portugal.

We engaged in a rather quick fire tasting before sitting to lunch. Below are my notes on the wines tasted. 

2015 Perequita Branco. Sourced from the very first vineyard for the company, the Cova de Perequita. A blend of Verdelho, Viosinho, and Viognier. No oak, simply pure clean and fresh aroma of orchard fruit, pear with dried flowers. I would say that it was much less fruity and floral than I expected. This wine is direct, fresh and lean.

2015 Perequita Original. This wine is the original and first wine brand the first to be exported. Around 800,000 litres of this wine is made. Aged in 100 year old Mahogany barrels. Mahogany wood is preferred as it is neutral, and strong enough to be shaped into the barrel size the company prefers. The wine is a classic blend of Castelão, Trincadeira and Aragones blended producing an aroma of rather fresh ripe red berry, with gentle floral tones and on the palate moving to gentle tannin almost vegetal and earthy, leading into a soft mineral tone. The fruit on the palate is easy, fruit driven and tart. Good Value and Easy drinking. 

2014 Perequita Reserva. The Reserve is a wine that was created roughly 10 years ago, the blue print is Castelão with Touriga Nacional and Touriga France. Vines are roughly 30-40 years old. This wine was made with sheer drinking pleasure in mind, it shares the same structure profile as the 'Original' Perequita, though we go deeper and richer with black berry fruit, seemingly sweeter fruit over layers of vanilla from French oak, and certainly a fuller bodied wine. 

Tasting at José Maria da Fonseca 2017

2014 'Domini', Tinto Douro. It was only in 1990 that da Fonseca purchased vineyards in the Douro and started making the 'Domini'. A blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinto Barroca, Touriga Frances and Tinto Roriz. I found this wine as I have with the other Douro I would taste on this trip, to be quite subtle in aroma and persistence. I feel that the wines need a lot of time, like the wines of Bordeaux. The palate seemed to reveal the future of this wine in aroma and palate evolution with dry dark berry fruit, some spice, and earthy tannin and texture. Almost like waiting outside of the club in the line that stretches around the corner, you can feel the bass and sound emanating through the walls, you know what to expect once you get inside the doors, but you still have to wait and be patient. 

2014 José de Sousa Tinto Alentejano. The vineyards for this wine are in the heart of the Alentejo at a region called Requengos. The vineyards are cherished for their granitic soils, giving way to mineral and fresh wines despite the ripeness that vines can achieve in the heat of the growing season. So details on this wine, we stretch back to traditional methods with 10% of the wine raised in clay amphora with a grape blend of Grand Noir, Trincadeira and Aragonez. In the glass the wine displays ripe plum and berry aroma with violet floral perfume. Palate is rich and full ripe and baked dark fruit backed by firm tannin and crisp acidity. Despite all this the wine remains fresh and cool to the touch.

2010 'Alambre' Moscatel de Setúbal. Moscatel for me is by far the best value and one of the highest quality dessert wines out there. From a producer focused on quality and precision these wines never cease to please, even the most avid Sauterne or Tokaji connoisseur. Mind you that Moscatel is still very different. José Maria da Fonseca are specialist with Moscatel, the original Muscat of Alexandria. The Setubal displays an intense aroma of bergamot and orange, to rose petal and other floral tones, the palate remains light and elegant in its sweetness with balance. The wine is made from the free run juice from a first press and rests 5 yeas in very old oak barrel. Gentle yet sweet and one of the most balanced dessert wines I have come across. 

We then sat down to lunch with António Sr. and we had a very lively conversation that ranged from politics, to world travel and to the history and future José Maria da Fonseca as a family run company. 

 

 

 

VIETTI - TRADITION OF INNOVATION

PRIMA

It was not long ago that I knew absolutely nothing about Nebbiolo and the wines of Barolo e Barbaresco.  As a matter of fact, I still know very little as I learn that there is so much to learn.  I had read somewhere that Barolo was the King of wines and Barbaresco was the Queen. Wines with lasting depth like that of Aglianico in the south but with a more haunting finish than that of Brunello of Tuscany. 
My first trip to Barolo was for a wine -trade event called Nebbiolo Prima, the vernissage of the years upcoming release to market of all wines Nebbiolo including Roero, Barbaresco and Barolo! My invitation was as a Sommelier/Buyer versus that of Media/Journalist. Choose your program was the initial email - vineyard visits, regional tours and choice of restaurants for the evening wine dinners. By the time I researched every single producer and restaurant for their worth, all options I wanted were booked. I was stuck with an initial tour of Roero…WoW!….It was great, it was amazing, what best way to warm up to the great wines of Piemonte than by tasting and learning about the gentle and playful wines of Roero. 
I did manage to make but 3 rather crucial and important vineyard visits, really without knowing. The first was to Elvio Cogno in Novello. Walter (son-in-law and wine maker) and Nadia (daughter to Elvio) I had met a few years before and fell in love with their wines. The other 2 wineries were Bartelomeo Mascarello and Vietti. I really knew nothing about them, imagine! Well wasn't I a lucky bugger. 5 years later and 3 trips all in total - each time included a visit to Mascarello and Vietti. Recently I wrote a piece which included a few words about Mascarello (see www.goodfoodrevolution.com 'boy-oh-boy' Barolo) and I think now is an opportune time to share a few words about the house of Vietti and the current winemaker Luca Currado. 

First I will reference Jamie Goode once again regarding an article about wine journalism and the subject of favouritism when writing and reviewing wines/wineries. Favouritism certainly and undoubtedly exists but what happens when you get to know the character of the wine and it's maker, after subsequent visits, research and tasting. I do find myself consistently noting that the wines of Vietti, like many others, stand out for their character and impact. Listen, I'm not talking about being the best wine, I'm talking about continually being a reference for erroir, technique and balance. Il est clair ce qu'on trouve tous qu'il faut dans tous les vins de Vietti!

Vietti represents innovation and tradition. I was in a trade seminar focusing on the region of Franciacorta hosted by Ricardo Curbastro and I will never forget him saying that 'a Tradition is the lasting result of an innovation that worked!' 

My tasting notes from a session not long ago.  

My tasting notes from a session not long ago.  

NO BERLUSCONI, NO CRU SINGLE VINEYARDS!

Real Talk! Circa 1961 - Luca's father Alfredo Currado, the patriarch for the current rendition of Vietti along with Beppi Colla, then of Prunotto, asked the question, 'wouldn't it be interesting and innovative to identify and bottle single vineyard expressions from the whole of Barolo'. Up until this point the rule of thumb was that Barolo was a cuvée or rather a blend of the best vineyards and the best of different areas into one wine. That was the true way to make a balanced wine. What one vineyard couldn't give another would provide, producing a uniform and coherent wine year in and year out. Every wine of Barolo would represent a portrait of the region painted by the hand of the wine maker. But what of vineyards that almost had it all. Alfredo wanted a closer look at the region, at the communes and why and how each hill produced a different wine. Alfredo wanted to find greater value, greater depth and character of Barolo, and this new way of thinking would prove to be a great way to differentiate his wines from the others. 
How would he achieve this and which vineyard to define this idea? The vineyard would be the heart of the Vietti family, the Le Rocche Vineyards in the commune of Castiglione Falletto. This was going to be the Barolo equivalent to the Burgundy 'Grand Cru'. La Rocche is the most challenging vineyard to manage, with aspect and slope so steep that everything must be done by horse and by hand. It is a vineyard that is the most challenging to interpret, making wines that need time. The results are enchanting, distinct and pure Nebbiolo. The second vineyard would be Brunate in the commune of La Morra  with wines that reveals its colours from the beginning with elegance, ripe fruit and 'softer' tannin. 
The third would would be Lazzarito of the commune of Serralunga d'Alba.  Lazzarito a bonafide 'grand cru' with wines tanninc, spiced and rich with depth of flavour like that of Southern Rhône. 

50 years on and these 'cru' are pillars of the Vietti Family of wines. They represent the first single vineyard expressions of and for Barolo. At the time it was an innovation that today has resulted in a widespread and now accepted and necessary 'tradition' of producers presenting an 'ultimate cru' expression of their vineyards. 

A FEW MORE WORDS ON VIETTI

This is not the end of it. If you have not already you must taste the single vineyard expression of their Barbera from both Asti and from Alba with some vines surpassing 85years of age. Now, If you choose to continue reading you will not find tasting notes, but background information on a few of the the Vietti wines. 

ARNEIS OF ROERO 

Luca Currado is the current character behind the the wines of Vietti, along with his wive Elena they make a formidable and jovial pair. He from a family of winemakers and she from a family of restaurateurs.

Another important wine in the family is the Arneis from their Santo Stafano vineyards in Roero. Arneis being a white variety. 

Roero is more than just the 'other' appellation for quality wines of the region of Alba. We seldom see the wines in the Ontario market due to the dominion of Barolo and Barbaresco. Though I will say, that on my first visit to Piemonte a few years back I toured the region and I was so pleased and enchanted by the approachability yet complex nature of the wines. The relatively sandy soils, various elevations make for more perfumed and softer wines. Don't drink 'under-age young vine' Nebbiolo from the B&B (Barolo&Barbaresco), drink Roero for a truer elegant and 'ready to drink' expressions of the grape.

But I digress I want to speak of Arnies, the grape once called Nebbiolo Bianco, As it was the blending partner to Nebbiolo in Barolo wines to create a softer and more complex profile to the wines of B&B in much the same way Viognier is used with Syrah in the Northern Rhône. This practice is no longer. Today Arneis stands on it's own and it was thanks to Luca's father Alfredo - the father of Arneis. At a time when the wine world of Italy was planting Chardonnay. Alfredo said No! We need a white wine that is not Chardonnay, and as an indigenous grape variety with character and moderate ageing potential Vietti in 1968 re-planted the Arneis in Roero, and rescued the grape from extinction. 

PERBACCO - LANGHE NEBBIOLO

Perbacco - the Langhe Nebbiolo of Vietti is in fact a regular Barolo. It is a blend of several of the Vietti Barolo vineyards that include for the most part wines from Castiglione Falletto vineyards and in particular with the 2012 vintage some components of Barbaresco sites in Rabaja and Pajé. The process is that from the year 2000 they now raise the wines in barrel for 2 years as per minimum 'Barolo' specifications, they then taste the wines blind. Certain barrels that do not make the cut for the 'cru' they originate from then get declassified and go into the Langhe. When Luca's grandmother tasted the first wines of this new method she exclaimed 'Perbacco!' which means goodness or by jove!.

BAROLO - CASTIGLIONE 

Castiglione is the Vietti signature house Barolo, comprised of several cru inside of the commune of Castiglione Falletto some of it occasionally be self-declassified Stock from any of the 15 cru estate vineyards around the appellation of Barolo. It is always a consistent wine and a benchmark for understanding their vision. 

A few of the CRU

  1. Lazzarito of Serralunga - was once the site of a famous hospice, or hospital of the region. A quote from the 1600's says that if the hill was good for the people, it should be good for wine'. This wine can take up to 28 days of fermentation. 
  2. Rocche di Castiglione - the first single vineyard 'cru' for Vietti. The emblem and heart of the Vietti family of wines.  
  3. Villero Riserva of Castiglione Falleto - a very special wine that has only been made 10 times in the last 40 years. It is seen only in years of exceptional vintages for the single vineyard Villero in Castiglione Falletto. An international artist is commissioned to make the label for that vintage and the wine is only released 6 years after harvest.
  4. Ravera of Novello - this vineyard is shared by only a few producers. For Vietti this wine presents a very 'polishedstyle that they would every produces. The rule is that 2/3 of the production is dedicated the the Castiglione blend and 1/3 to be released as 'Ravera' Cru. He initially released the wines to much high critical acclaim but personally Luca did not like the wines. They were too slick. As of 2010 he recommenced single vineyard releases of the wine with limited bottles approx 14,000. 
  5. Barbaresco 'Masseria' - is the Barbaresco made with the 'intelligence' of a Barolo wine maker, thus this wine has the same release as Barolo and has the same minimum specifications for barrel ageing, resulting in a deeper and richer style Barbaresco. 

Well. That's it. I hope you may find these in your market pick a few and enjoy! 

FORADORI : THE ELEGANCE OF TEROLDEGO

It was a very cold Sunday night in January, it felt as though winter had finally arrived. Myself a winter baby it has been strange to have such 'clement' weather this time of year. Taking advantage of the snow-free streets I rode my bicycle down to Archive Wine Bar to taste the unique wines of Foradori and to meet Emilio Foradori. Emilio, oenologue and viticulture since 2013 is here on a multi-city tour of Canada presenting his first vintage as 'winemaker' of this family run winery. Emilio has taken over from his graceful and elegant mother Elisabetta. Emilio 27 yrs old, himself a student of Viticulture from SupAgro 'the' school of Viticultural Sciences in Montpellier (South France) and raised in the way of biodynamics is expanding on the vision of his mother, and that is to produce wines from indigenous grapes, Manzoni Bianco, Nosiola and Teroldego. Creating wines with depth and character, that are world class representatives of the potential of this northern corner of Italy. 

ELISABETTA Foradori, LA REGINA DELLA VAL D'ADIGE, Naturalemente

Elisabetta, is the Queen of Teroldego; from the age of 19 she was placed in charge her father's winery and estate. The father who suddenly passed away left all he had to his one daughter and dutifully she continued to tend to the vines until, intrinsically, she was lead to the world of biodynamics. Biodynamics as a philosophy and way of shepherding the vine and grape towards a more complex and dynamic wine. She completed studies in Viticulture and Winemaking and thus from a technical aspect she was capable of making correct wine from the grape Teroldego of Rotaliano. She soon grew tired of the run of the mill correct wines and the co-operative mentality so much that in the early 80's she started the conversion to  biodynamic methods to allow the truth to be heard from her vines. She first focused on Teroldego as the variety to be the vehicle for her 'message in the bottle'. The wines stand alone and are an example of honest winemaking. Taste for yourself and you shall see. 

“Why is Granato Granato?…it was meant to be a big fat wine from the Teroldego grape, at the time the common example was fresh, floral and lighter in body….with time the wine has become concentrated, focused and the strongest expression of what Foradori Teroldego is…”
— Emilio Foradori

TEROLDEGO of the Rotaliano Plains

The grape is found for the most part in the central valley below the Dolomiti Mountains. The 'plain' is called Campo Rotaliano for which the grape receives it's classic name Teroldego Rotaliano. Now interestingly enough the grape is genetically related to the majestic Syrah of France. It is also the cousin of the Lagrein of Italy, and the lesser known Mondeuse and Dureza of France. The growth cycle, as explained briefly by Emilio, is like that of Syrah, it is quite vigourous, the leaves will fall, as in lop over from their own weight unless they are managed and will produce medium sized grapes that are harvested usually in September. The grape tends to produce wines of elevated acidity, with dark savoury fruitiness and are deep in colour. 

The beauty of the Foradori vineyards is that vines for all of their vineyards are originally from a massal selection ( 15 select cuttings of old vines) from 4 of their oldest vineyards. These 4 vineyards were planted within the years of 1938 and 1954 and contain the original 'DNA' for the Teroldego that they use today. These 4 vineyards produce the grapes for the top red cuvée called 'GRANATO'. 

 Foradori does not use 'clones'. The reason is that as a result of agricultural crossings, certain 'clones' of the same variety are made to be either very productive and/or resistant to disease for whatever purpose suits the needs of the winemaker and though they can produce palatable wines these specimens will never reach the same complexity and depth of flavour as original massal selections. Foradori has chosen quality over quantity.

Foradori Family of Wines.

Foradori Family of Wines.

message in the bottle, a session with emilio foradori

We began the tasting with the 2014 Manzoni Bianco 'Fontanasanta'. Manzoni Bianco isn't that what we clean hockey rinks with? Not quite. It is in Emilio's opinion 'one of the few crossings by man that were successful'. The Dr. Manzoni was responsible for crossing Riesling and Pinot Bianco, thus Manzoni Bianco. The Manzoni Bianco populated vineyards within Friuli, Veneto and Trentino producing mineral and savoury wines, with low yields and a strange growth character, in that the vine grows straight up in the air like a bean stalk, and with thick skins became an ideal candidate for wines of long maceration. it was Emilio's grandfather, who studied wine in Conegliano (Prosecco country), that found that the grape adapted well to the clay soils of the hills in Trento near a village called Fontanasanta. The wine itself spends 5-7 days of maceration with skin contact and then 7-8 months in Acacia casks. I found the wine to be quite lovely and engaging with a lovely floral, then smokey and white stone fruit character with a palate of mountain flowers and bright herbs. With time this wine will be quite charming. 

We had the pleasure of tasting two vintages of the Nosiola 'Fontanasanta' both 2010 and 2013. The Nosiola grape variety is local and indigenous which today is limited to 50 hectares in the entire world. 50 years ago there were more than 850 hectares dedicated to the grape before the 'co-operative' system forced out this rather 'non-aromatic' and 'Shy' grape. The majority believed in Pinot Grigio, the almighty saviour and provider. Foradori stuck by Nosiola and this wine is a fantastic example of what Foradori is about.

Enter the amphora, the spanish styled clay vessel called the 'Tinajas' [tina'has}. We talked of the 2 prevailing traditions of 'clay' Amphora wine making, 1. that of the Georgians and 2. that of the Spanish that use 'clay' as the material for the vessel. Why I asked, and Emilio explained that clay gives oxygen and helps in the 'life processes' of the wine as it moves through it's natural transformation from grape to wine. The clay keeps the wines bright and alive without imparting additional flavour. The Foradori Nosiola spends 7 months with skin contact in amphorae and tasting the two vintages side by side the progression is remarkable. 2013 Nosiolo 'Fontnasanta' was rotund with pear, melon, then savoury of mountain herbes and dried mountain flowers and another moment, waxy like honeycomb. The wine is very persistent in flavour. Whereas the 2010 Nosiola 'Fontanasanta' was evolved with red and green apple skin, the texture of tannin subtle and salted, the herbs moved to something caramel and luscious 'super dope' flavours I exclaimed, like nothing I've tasted before and the perfume. I was compelled to eat and drink. To put this wine into context, there are only 3 other producers working with this variety in a region that is dominated by 2 very large co-operatives that account for 95% of the wine produced in the region. Now think Trentino-Alto Adige contributes maybe 5% of Italian wine production. The co-operatives generate 70million bottles and Foradori generates 8,000 bottles of this near forgotten grape Nosiolo! Get some it's great!

We then proceeded to the reds which are all 100% Teroldego 'vigneti delle Dolomiti' from 2011 and 2013 vintages. Emilio describes the vintages in very direct terms. 2011 was a 'Primadonna' vintage of generous and sexy wines and the 2013 vintage was more 'German' in style. My notes in brief are as follows. 

2013 Foradori Teroldego. A wine that spends 1/2 it's time in oak and the other in concrete was redolent of violets and purple flowers (what are purple flowers) and dark berries, the flavours were earthy and textured with a subtle burnt orange skin with soft grained tannin that was gentle and savoury. This is the classic Foradori Teroldego from the plains of Rotaliano. (in Bordeaux bottle for wines that have spent time in oak) 

We then moved to the (2)single vineyard expressions of Teroldego. Wines of long maceration in the 'tinaja' styled amphorea. Both wines were presented in Burgundy bottle

Two single Vineyards 100% Teroldego 100% Amphora (Tinajas) 100% delightful.

Two single Vineyards 100% Teroldego 100% Amphora (Tinajas) 100% delightful.

2013 Sgarzon Teroldego. Emilio describes this wine as 'nervous' and bright with acidity as it comes from a cooler site with sandy soils. Indeed the wine is bright and floral, with sweet fresh red berry like a creamed soda. The texture of the wine is remarkable in that the tannin is evident but not pronounced. The wine is earthy but carries none of the tell-tale signs of amphora aged biodynamic wines. It was a Teroldego that I had always wanted.

2013 Morei Teroldego comes from one of the hottest vineyards that receives an extra 2 hours more of sun exposure and is on stoney soils. Morei means dark in the Trento dialect and the wine is indeed warmer and richer in all facets. Think dark cherry, sweet purée of tomato with red liquorice. I imagines red twizzlers made of wine. The structure of the wine was just that much more beefier than the Sgarzon but you could identify them having the same hand in wine making. The acid hound that I am loved the Sgarzon but the Morei had a certain hedonistic pleasure. Both wines would be handsome at the dinner table and fitting for any and every mood. Balanced, focused, complex and of character. 

2011 Granato Teroldego. The flagship wine of the family. Before tasting I had to ask Emilio 'Why is Granato Granato?" His response was that as a wine that started in the 80's it was meant to be a big fat wine from Teroldego, at the time the common examples were fresh, floral and lighter in body. Though the Granato has evolved with time, the wine has become concentrated, focused and the strongest expression of what Foradori Teroldego is.

An homage to the influence of the Mediterranean, the origin of wine. Granato - charm, beauty, elegance

An homage to the influence of the Mediterranean, the origin of wine. Granato - charm, beauty, elegance

Granato = Pomegranate. I have had 2009 vintage of this wine and it is such a charming and sexy wine, the 2011 was nothing short of lovely, with minted dark forest berry, savoury and bright profile on the palate with a soft braised mushroom, umami like texture, call it depth of flavour and I reminded myself that Granato is sourced from the 4 oldest mother vineyards, planted between 1938 to 1954. The 4 main vineyards being Regin, Redot, Pasquari, Cesura and occasionally Noval. 

Emilio Foradori

I must say it was a fantastic and casual session of tasting and talking wine with Emilio and Foradori, one of Italy's brightest stars of wine. Thank you to Archive Wine bar for hosting us and 'The Living Vine' Agency for bringing us such a elegant and lovely wines. Emilio was quite charismatic despite just getting off the plane 3 hours previous. I can only imagine the power and grace of his mother. Emilio having studied in France, has also worked at Cheval Blanc, has recently spent some time in Patagonia and is part of a generation of modern and connected winemakers that will only bring the public closer to the true 'message in the bottle'. 

That's it for now. a la proxima

Christopher